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Building an Outdoor Table (Part 3)
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As we wind up this project, I want to share the joinery techniques I used and explain my reasoning behind them, followed by the finishing process for this outdoor table. If you missed it, Part 1 of this series detailed the design of the table and the choice of white oak as the primary wood. In Part 2, I covered the milling process and preparation of the individual components, along with the careful layout to maximize visual appeal.
Now, in this final installment, we’ll bring everything together and set the table in its permanent spot. For the apron-to-leg joint, the classic mortise and tenon joint was my first choice due to its strength and durability—features that have made it a staple in furniture making for centuries. To enhance this traditional joint, I incorporated a drawbore technique, which adds an extra layer of stability and permanence. If you're curious about the specifics of creating a drawbore joint, check out my earlier post for more details.
Since the legs were too tall for my mortising machine, I had to rely on my drill press to rough out the mortises. Afterward, I refined the joints by hand using a mallet and chisel. You can see the initial layout marks in the photo below. Once the mortise and tenon joints were complete, I performed a dry fit to get a sense of how the table would look in its entirety.
One thing I noticed during this phase was that the table appeared somewhat boxy, lacking that extra touch of elegance. To address this, I decided to introduce a subtle taper on the inner faces of the legs—specifically where the table rails meet. However, I held off on cutting these tapers until after the drawbore pegs were installed. Below, you’ll find an image of the fully assembled table base, showcasing the slight taper I added to each leg.
With the glue now drying, all that remains is to trim the dowels from the drawbore pegs and complete the sanding process. Moving on to the outdoor finish, I’ll quickly recap why I chose white oak for this project. Since this table will be exposed to the elements year-round, I wanted a finish that could stand up to moisture and UV rays without requiring constant maintenance. Drawing inspiration from my experience with boatbuilding, where white oak has historically been a popular choice, I settled on Epifanes clear varnish. Known in the boating world for its protective qualities, Epifanes guards against water and sunlight damage—a perfect match for this table.
The application of Epifanes follows a methodical process. Initially, I thinned the varnish 50/50, applied it, and let it dry for about 24 hours. Subsequent layers required progressively less thinning until I completed five coats. This level of protection should last several years before needing reapplication. When maintenance becomes necessary, a light sanding followed by a couple more coats will keep the table looking fresh for another few years.
Here’s the finished table in its final location, ready to withstand the test of time.
That concludes this project for now. I’ve got a few other ideas in the pipeline and maybe even a major announcement coming soon, so stay tuned!
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This version is slightly longer than the original while maintaining the same core content and structure.