Who is the world's most authoritative mountaineering organization?

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Birds of a feather flock together. There are many people climbing, so they formed large and small groups. In the 20th century when international exchanges became more frequent, two global authoritative mountaineering organizations, UIAA and IFMGA, were born. As climbers, it is necessary to understand them.

International Association of Mountaineering Associations

UIAA is the French Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, the abbreviation of the International Association of Mountaineering Associations.
A total of 92 mountaineering associations in 68 countries
The UIAA, established in Chamonix, France, in 1932, is now made up of 92 mountaineering associations from 68 countries, with more than 3 million members worldwide. In most countries, the Mountaineering Association is a non-governmental organization formed by mountaineering enthusiasts. After paying dues, it enjoys the convenience and benefits provided by the Mountaineering Association.
At present, the largest mountaineering association in the world is the German Mountaineering Association DAV with more than 1.1 million members. The Austrian Mountaineering Association OEAV ranks first in terms of population, and 5% of the country’s total population is a member of the Mountaineering Association. In 1985, China formally joined UIAA.

Provide better service for climbers
When the number of people reaches a certain scale, mountaineering associations have greater power to provide better services for climbers, such as discounts for outdoor shops or rock climbing halls, and rescue insurance included in membership fees. When an accident occurs to seek rescue, you only need to present the Mountaineering Association membership card, and you do not need to bear the rescue cost that may be very expensive (depending on the country).
The Mountaineering Association also provides members with a training mechanism. Taking the German Mountaineering Association as an example, enthusiasts with certain experience and technical skills can apply to participate in the National Association of Mountaineering, Trekking, Rock Climbing, and Ski Instructor Training. After qualifying, they can provide various training courses for enthusiasts in local clubs. Although it is not professionally comparable to professional mountain guides, it plays an invaluable role in the healthy and orderly development of outdoor sports.

In the Alps, mountaineering societies build, operate or maintain nearly a thousand Alpine hotels and shelters of varying sizes, most of which provide accommodation and meals. As a base camp for climbing and various outdoor sports in the mountains, these Hut built the unparalleled hardware foundation of the Alps outdoor sports, freeing climbers and hikers from the burden of carrying tents and supplies while also effectively reducing the mountain environment. Impact.
The Hut of the Swiss Mountaineering Association SAC receives accommodation for 900,000 people each year, and Hut of the German Mountaineering Association DAV receives about 700,000 people each year. No matter which national mountaineering association member, half-price concessions are offered in Hut accommodations of mountaineering associations in any other country.

The Mountaineering Association regularly publishes periodicals, most notably the American Alpine Journal published by the American Mountaineering Association AAC, the American Alpine Journal, or AAJ for short. The AAJ, which is published every year, summarizes the recordable climbs in the world over the past year. It has long established its authoritative status. The climbers who completed the first ascent or opened a new route used the AAJ report as part of the climb.

Core tasks
When national mountaineering associations form alliances, UIAA's responsibilities include topics that all climbers are concerned about, such as: mountaineering safety, sustainable mountaineering, athletic climbing, etc.
Focus on security is the core task of UIAA. To this end, UIAA has established a set of safety standards, such as the vertical strength of the master lock 20kN that we are familiar with, the dynamic rope crash coefficient, and its test methods. The UIAA logo is marked on the product and represents its safety standard test. It should be noted that some manufacturers have marked UIAA in their products without permission. The UIAA also established a blacklist system for such brands. Now, two of the three vendors on the blacklist are from China.
There are 3 million climbers worldwide as the data base, and alpine medicine is also the focus of UIAA research. Through the study of mountain diseases, and the possible occurrence of disease trauma in mountain climbing or other outdoor sports in the mountains, professional mountain medicine or climbing sports medicine specialists are trained to provide medical advice and treatment for mountaineers or hikers.
Promoting athletics climbing is also a job of UIAA. In recent years, competitive rock climbing has developed rapidly and even entered the Olympic Games. In 2007, the International Sports Federation of the Rock Climbing Federation IFSC formally separated from the UIAA. At present, the competitive ice climbing competition is still operated by UIAA.

International Association of Alpine Wizards Association

The IFMGA English name is the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations, and is the association of the International Alpine Guide Association. It also has French and German names, abbreviated as UIAGM and IVBV.
Absolute professional status
With respect to the extensiveness of UIAA, IFMGA established in 1965 has established an absolute professional status through strict entry standards.
Alpine guides are a special kind of job. Their work place is usually a high-risk mountain. They are responsible for the safety of customers. Obviously, if you don’t have the actual level and claim to be a mountain guide, you may put your customers in danger and cause your life to be in danger. As a result, industry associations such as the Alpine Wizards Association have formed in some countries. On the one hand, these associations have formulated training and assessment standards, and on the other hand, they have to take legal responsibility.
It is not uncommon for alpine guides to climb across the border in several countries across the European Alps. In 1965, the Alpine Wizards Associations of the four countries and regions of France, Switzerland, Austria, and Italy (Aosta Valley) formed an alliance of international mountain guide associations to standardize the level of mountain guides. In 2012, Nepal became the 22nd Member State and one of the only two Member States in Asia (the other is Japan). Although Nepal has a long history of climbing and a large number of Sherpas, only 24 people currently meet the IFMGA qualification standards.

How hard is it to join IFMGA?
First of all, there are no less than 20 members of the Mountain Wizards Association in the country and region. This guide association needs a comprehensive training assessment mechanism covering ice, rocks, mountains, (snow) snow, and meeting IFMGA-recognized standards (in some cases, this skiing can be dispensed with), and at the same time in this country and region. Natural conditions can be suitable for carrying out at least two of them. Finally, the training and assessment of the Alpine Wizards Association was approved by the government and legal agencies.
To meet such conditions, IFMGA's review and investigation are required before they can become full members. The members of the National Association of Mountain Guides are eligible to wear IFMGA badges. The entire process takes 5 to 10 years.

Alpine guidance training is not mountain climbing training. When registering for the exam, it was already a highly experienced, fully capable climber with no obvious shortcomings, a rock climbing level of 5.10 days or more, more than 20 difficulty climbing routes to D, and more than 15 ski mountaineering routes. About 150 to 180 candidates are enrolled in the National Ski Mountaineering School (ENSA) in France. About 20 to 30% of the candidates pass the entrance examination, and about 35 to 50 students.
After passing the exam, he will participate in rock climbing, ice climbing, summer mountain climbing, winter ski mountaineering, safety and equipment and other modules. After completing the first phase of approximately 60 days of training, you will be given the apprenticeship guide and you can take your client to climb some difficult routes. Before the second stage of study, the apprentice guide must first take the customer to complete 40 climbs. The third stage of study is also the final assessment, elimination rate of about 10%. Pass the final guide exam to become an IFMGA International Mountain Guide.

In the Alps region, IFMGA guidance qualification is a necessary condition for climbing a client, otherwise it may be investigated for legal liability (such as calling and rescue, involving accident investigation), and the United States has more complicated laws and regulations. Strict standards ensure the level of mountain guides, and it is also a guarantee for commercial customers to climb.

Similarities and differences between UIAA and IFMGA
UIAA and IFMGA are all federations of associations from different countries and regions. The difference is that: UIAA members are national and regional mountaineering associations. Fans are free to enter the conference according to their wishes. They usually do not have the ability or experience to meet the requirements. The mass foundation; IFMGA is an industry association of professionals, must pass rigorous assessment to obtain membership qualifications, and then must be reviewed to ensure the validity of their qualifications.
UIAA and IFMGA have covered the needs of mountaineers from both wide and fine. Mountaineers can decide whether to join the mountaineering association according to their own needs. When looking for a mountain guide, IFMGA can be considered as a criterion.

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